A guide to travel in Qeshm Island, Iran

Share on facebook
Share on pinterest
Share on twitter
Share on whatsapp

Important – For some reason, the Iranian Government has decided to block my website, so if you want to browse Against the Compass while you are in Iran, you must use a VPN. For more information, read how to choose the right VPN for Iran

Iran is a well-known destination for its classic Persian cities, filled with stunning mosques and dreamy gardens.

Very few travelers think of Iran as a beach destination, but it truly can be.

With more than 1,500 kilometers of undiscovered coastline, the Persian Gulf shores are home to a unique landscape, culture and, of course, beautiful islands.

I visited Qeshm Island, the largest in Iran and of special interest for those seeking both a distinctive geography and a taste of what culture in the Persian Gulf is like.

To check all the places I visited in Iran, read my Iran itinerary for the independent traveler

 

qeshm island

 

A guide to travel in Qeshm Island, Iran

Located in the Strait of Hormuz, just 60 kilometers away from the Omani shore, Qeshm is an island with a great abundance of wildlife and plenty of unique geological formations, many of which are listed as UNESCO Heritage sites.

But this is not all.

Due to its position, Qeshm has been of high strategic importance for many centuries. In fact, the Portuguese conquered and ruled it for about 200 years and this is why, today, it still has an ancient Portuguese fortress and some streets even have Portuguese names.

By the way, do you know the guys from 1stQuest? They are an Iranian company who offer plenty of services for traveling in Iran, like insurance, visa, and bus and plane tickets booking. The best is that you can finally purchase or book these services with an international credit card. The good news is that the readers of this blog can use my 5% discount code in all their services: ATC-QST Click here to learn more about 1stQuest

Qeshm Island Iran

 

The culture in Qeshm Island

Some people come to Qeshm to enjoy its beaches and impressive canyons.

Not me. I went there because I wanted to see what the Persian Gulf culture is like in Iran, compared to the Arab Gulf monarchies.

Except in some small villages from Oman, the traditional Persian Gulf culture has practically disappeared. In Qatar, the United Arab Emirates, Bahrain or Saudi Arabia, the locals have moved to the main cities and the very few places where you can see a small spillover of this culture are inhabited by Pakistani and Indian immigrants instead, so it is not very authentic.

Qeshm travel

This is not the case of Qeshm, a place which has been able to preserve such old traditions. Unlike most people in Iran, the natives of Qeshm Island are Sunni Muslims; physically, they look more like Arabs and, actually, many of them speak an Arabic dialect. From Sunni-shaped minarets to a local cuisine based on seafood and wind towers to protect themselves from the heavy heat, Qeshm is a completely different world from the rest of Iran.

But, perhaps, the most distinctive thing is the way the local women dress, in such colorful abayas and wearing peculiar masks. They claim the reason they wear them is more cultural than religious, which could actually be true because, unlike the Sunni Arab women, they are quite laid back and will give you a conversation. I really don’t know the reason behind it, but you need to remember that they also had a great Persian influence, so that may explain it.

Do you have travel insurance? Remember that, because of the sanctions, most companies will not cover for travel in Iran. I strongly recommend you read how to find the right travel insurance for Iran

Qeshm women

 

Things to do in Qeshm

I spent three days wandering around the island. These are the top touristic attractions in Qeshm:

Qeshm Tourism – Top tourist attractions

 

Shib Deraz and the Sea Turtle Breeding Area

This small locality is a really good base from where to explore the rest of the island. It has a nice beach, plenty of camping spots and a great guesthouse. If you come between April and July, you will be able to witness the turtles coming out from the water to bury their eggs in the sand. There is a big team of local men are taking care of this 24/7 and, at night, when the turtles come out of the water (usually around 2 or 3am) they call out all the people who are camping around, so everybody can witness such a fascinating natural event. I didn’t see it though, because the day it happened, I was in a very deep sleep 😀

Furthermore, you can also go on a sightseeing dolphin tour. Personally, I am not a very big fan of it because they squeeze 30 people in a tiny boat and go chase the poor dolphins. In any case, the tour costs 150,000IR (3.60USD).

Qeshm Island tourism
Shiz Deraz from above – Qeshm Island tourism

 

Hengam Island

Hengam is an even smaller island which is almost attached to Qeshm. I liked it a lot because it has the best beaches and also, most women living there wear the traditional colorful clothes. The boats leave you at the southern part of the island and what I recommend is walking two kilometers from the eastern side, until you get to a pretty nice beach. On the way back, you should stop at the main village and have some fish and shrimp samosas. The boat terminal is located around 1 or 2 kilometers west from Shib Deraz. A one-way ticket costs 50,000IR (1.20USD).

Qeshm Iran
A wrecked boat in Hengam Island

 

Stars Valley

This is the main tourist attraction in Qeshm, as it is where you can find the geological formations the Island is famous for. It’s a place to wander around the canyons and tiny valleys. Try to come here for the end of the day, to see the sunset rays reflecting off the canyon walls!

 

Qeshm city

The main city on the island sucks and the only reason to come is that, here, you find the harbor from where you get in and out of the island. There is also a ruined Portuguese fortress which may be worth two minutes of your time, no more.

 

Laft

A traditional fishing village for centuries, Laft is, perhaps, the place which has the most preserved traditional Persian Gulf culture ever, way more than any other place in any Arab country. The village must be quite conservative compared to other places in Qeshm Island, as I didn’t see any woman around, which means that they were most probably working at home. On the other hand, there were many men hanging out on the street, most of them wearing the traditional clothes from the region, very similar to the Arab kandura.

Laft Qeshm
The wind-towers of Laft

 

Where to stay in Qeshm

There are hotels and guest houses all over the island but many people, both local and tourists, prefer to camp. Regardless of which option you take, I recommend you choose one spot from where to do day trips to the different suggested places. I recommend staying in Shib Deraz, as it is relatively close to most things to do in Qeshm.

Budget guest house – Fattahi Guest House – If you want to stay in a traditional, comfortable house, this place is quite popular among travelers. It is located in Shib Deraz and the owner can organize absolutely any activity for you.

Mid-range hotel – Golden Beach Hotel – If you want to enjoy some real beach holidays, this hotel resort is the most popular one.

Camping – There are hundreds of kilometers of sandy beaches where to pitch your tent. Depending on the season, you are likely to camp with plenty of friendly locals. This was actually the highlight of my trip to Qeshm, as I hanged out with loads of super hospitable families who I had an amazing time with.

Spiced shrimps with rice – Traditional Persian Gulf food

 

How to get to Queshm Island

By boat

Bandar Abbas is one of the main coastal cities in Iran and where boats to the islands depart from. Several ferries leave continuously for Qeshm city, located in the western part of the island and the largest city in Qeshm. A one-way ticket costs 150,000IR (3.60USD) and the journey takes around 40 minutes. The port location in Bandar Abbas is here: 27.173774, 56.280421. Bandar Abbas is a pretty big city, so you can get in from pretty much anywhere in Iran, for example by bus from Shiraz and even by train from Yazd. I personally came all the way from Mashhad, on a 24-hour train.

By plane

Believe it or not, Qeshm Island has an international airport with flights coming from cities like Dubai or Istanbul, as well as other Iranian cities. Apparently, there is one daily flight from Dubai but you had better check the Qeshm Air website.

You can also fly from Tehran and a few other places within the country and you can easily book your tickets through 1stQuest and use my 5% discount code: ATC-QST

Click here to see the latest prices for flying from Tehran to Qeshm

Qeshm tourist attractions
The ferry terminal in Bandar Abbas

 

How to move around

Public transportation – Getting around Qeshm Island can be a bit tricky, as public transportation is scarce. There are buses going to the main cities, but there is no regular transportation between villages and sites of interest, which is where you will spend most of your time.

By car – A car might prove amazingly useful and you can even get it into the ferry from the Iranian mainland.

By taxi – If you don’t have a car, you may have to move around by taxi. Just bear in mind that there is a lot of domestic tourism in Qeshm, so taxi prices are quite high, as per Iranian standards.

Hitchhiking – I hitchhiked the entire island and it was fairly easy. However, when I came in April it was super hot and, since I was camping, I had to take my big backpack with me for all day trips. It was tough and this is what I call hard backpacking.

 

More practical information for traveling to Qeshm

Hormuz Island – You can get to Hormuz very easily. From Qeshm City, there are two daily ferries, one at 9am and the other one at 2pm.

Tours – A good way to explore the island is on a tour. If you are in Shiraz and don’t have much time, Key2Persia can organize everything for you, including transportation, accommodation, and activities. Otherwise, if you are already in Qeshm, you can ask at any hotel and guest house you stay. Fattahi Guest House seems like a good place.

When to go – This is the Persian Gulf, so it has a similar climate to Dubai and other Gulf Arab countries. This means that summers are extremely hot and humid, so it is recommended to travel to Qeshm during winter, early spring or late autumn.

Free visa – If you travel to Qeshm by plane and just stay on the island, you don’t need to get a visa for Iran.

 

If you like my website and found this post useful, remember that, if you book any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me maintain and keep Against the Compass going! Thanks 🙂

 

Things to do in Qeshm

DOWNLOAD MY EBOOK FOR FREE!

HOW TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TO THE MOST OFF-BEAT COUNTRIES

plus get all updates and exclusive tips!

17 comments

  1. Super breakdown here Joan.

    I never thought of beach, or islands, when dwelling on Iran. Amazing garb out in those parts too; I’m loving the colorful clothes these women are sporting. I’d skip the dolphin tour too if they are not being fair to the animals. Unless it’s a totally modernized area, any animal themed tourist – or local – stuff seems to move in a not too nice direction.

    Thanks for sharing the rocking post!

    Ryan

    1. Hey Ryan, thanks for your fruitful comment. To be very honest, they don’t really do anything bad to the dolphins… I guess. They live in the actual sea, not in a pool, and the dolphins just stick around and follow the boat… I am no expert, so I don’t know if this is a form of eco-tourism or not

  2. Great article, breakdown and photos! Sadly, I could only stay on the island for less than 24 hours so I missed a lot. Your atricle reminded me of all I missed! Must go back now!

      1. Ahhhh, but you got pictures of those crazy masks, which I wish I would have!

        I just potsed my Qeshm recap (story, photos) on my website, I’d be honored if you came by and checked it out!

  3. Hi Joan, thanks for the great article!
    I m finishing a 3 days trip around Queshm. I explored all the main touristic points, and other more off the beaten track, sleeping in difeerent villages, but didn t managed to see local women with the kind masks you show in your pics. Are they locals? I saw they sell these kind of masks in some shops, but the women I saw wearing traditional masks, mainly old women, had another kind of mask, smaller size and less colourful. Do you remember where did you took the pics?
    Thanks for your advices, and keep the helpfull work!

        1. Then I don’t know. When I went to Hengam I probably saw 10 or 15 women wearing those masks from many different colors and didn’t see them anywhere else

  4. Thanks for the article Graham.
    My feeling, as the article also mention, is that the tradition of the Burqa or batoolahes is disapearing in many places, specialy among new generations. I ve been traveling through south Iran during the last weeks and the majority of women didn t wear the mask. Even so, I ve seen women , almost all of them old, wearing masks in different places I visited where Bandari people live: Bander Abas, Laft, Queshm, Hormuz, Hengam, Kagnuj,… Also a few among Baloosh people. But most of the masks I saw were smaller and more metalic-leather colour, like the ones described in your article.
    Beside iranian tourist women for the instagram photo or locals working in touristic spots, I barely saw a couple of local woman wearing the colourfull mask covering all their face, and these women were totaly covered (like afgan burqa, but more colourful dressed) and looked more conservative and difficult to approach . That s why I was surprised when I saw your photos of smiley young women posing for the photo with lipstick and colourful masks.

    But as always happens, 2 different persons visiting the same place, will probably have different experiences.
    Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience Joan, I found useful info about Iran in your website

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

DOWNLOAD A FREE COPY OF MY LATEST EBOOK

a guide to plan your trip to the most offbeat destinations

Scroll to Top