A guide to Liwa Oasis and the Moreeb dune
At that precise moment when you find yourself surrounded by a vast sea of dunes whose end can’t even be seen from the furthest horizon, there are no signs of modern civilization and the deepest silence is only broken by the growl of camels and the warm welcome of the local Bedouins, you start wondering:
Am I still in that luxurious and pretentious Gulf country called the United Arab Emirates?
Because no one can argue against the idea that the Liwa Oasis and the Empty Quarter (Rub al-Jali) represent the most authentic, wild and pure image of the often underrated Arabian Gulf.
This guide to the Liwa Oasis contains everything you need to know, including things to do in Liwa, accommodation and transportation tips.
Read: a 1-week itinerary to Dubai and the UAE
In this Liwa Oasis travel guide you find:
Table of Contents
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Introduction and history to the Liwa Oasis in Abu Dhabi
Liwa Oasis is located in the south-eastern part of the country, 250km from Abu Dhabi and 350km from Dubai, very close to the border with Saudi Arabia.
The oasis is situated on the north-eastern edge of the Empty Quarter (Rub-al-Jali), a vast desert spread across the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman, and Yemen, which is the largest continuous sea of dunes in the world.
It extends over an area of 650,000km² and measures 1,000km in length by 500km in width.
The Bedouin who lived in the oasis of Liwa (the Bani Yas tribe) tapped underground, freshwater recourses to cultivate dates and, as a result, a large number of villages and settlements appeared in Liwa during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Liwa was the birthplace of the Nahyan family, the current ruling family of Abu Dhabi and the UAE, which, back then, was the leading family of the Bani Yas tribe.
However, at the end of the 18th century, the Nahyan family decided to move to Abu Dhabi to work in the pearl industry as, during that century, collecting and trading pearls had become a key element of the region’s economy.
Nevertheless, some Bedouin remained in Liwa and, for the next couple of centuries, they built forts and towers to protect all their resources.
Today, the cultivation of dates in Liwa is so important for the country’s economy, that they are even building a train to Liwa with the sole objective of taking the dates to the capital and making them ready for exportation.
The Liwa is Oasis is absolutely breath-taking but, on top of that, this is the only place in the country where you can experience the real, ancient Emirati culture.
Read: A guide to visit Riyadh in Saudi Arabia
Liwa Oasis accommodation
There are a few hotels, two of them very close to the main Liwa Oasis attractions and the other in Madinat Zayed, a small town 60km away from the actual oasis.
If you are planning to visit Liwa during high-season, do book in advance, as they tend to be quite busy.
The cheapest – Liwa Hotel – The hotel is all right, nothing fancy but the location is quite unbeatable, right in the middle of the sea dunes, from where you get stunning views of the Empty Quarter.
A bit nicer (but further away) – Tilal Liwa Hotel – The hotel itself is nicer than Liwa Hotel, especially because it has an amazing pool and the rooms are definitely better. However, the location is not that great, as it is 60km away from the core of the oasis.
The best – Anantara Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort – This resort is the most awesome desert hotel in the country. With some of the most stunning views ever, this 5-star hotel is real Emirati luxury combined with tradition. Even if you are not staying here, it is worth checking out.
Things to do in Liwa
Climbing the Moreeb Dune
The culture and history of the UAE might be interesting but, the landscape of the Empty Quarter is simply stunning, to the extent that there’s a famous dune called Moreeb (or Tal Mireb, meaning scary hill) that is 300 meters high, 1,600 meters long and has an inclination of more than 50 degrees.
It’s considered one of the highest and biggest dunes in the world and climbing it to the top is a real sport but very rewarding at the same time.
Such is the importance of this dune, that the Government has built a road to the dune itself, so you don’t really need a 4WD to reach it.
Moreover, at the bottom of the dune, there is a huge complex that holds camel racing and cultural festivals such as the Liwa Dates Festival.
The Moreeb Dune is one of the top things to do in Liwa.
Read: Dubai off the beaten track
Driving among massive dunes
If you like driving, the road that goes to Tal Mireb passes by vertiginous sand mountains that will make you want to stop at every one.
You don’t really need a 4WD but, sometimes, because of the wind, some parts of the road might be covered with sand, so just drive carefully!
This journey is another great thing to do in Liwa.
Watching the sunset over the Empty Quarter
One piece of advice: bring a bottle of wine and drink it at the top of a dune while you watch the sunset over the largest sea of dunes in the world, the Empty Quarter.
Nowhere else I have been to, have I been surrounded by such a huge amount of sand.
This was, indeed, my most favorite moment of my trip to Liwa.
Meeting authentic Emirati Bedouins
Due to the country’s strong economic growth and the endless luxury resources the government provides for its citizens, nowadays, there are not many Emirati Bedouin who still keep their traditional way of living.
However, the few Bedouins who do remain are settled along the road in Liwa, where they live in small shacks and make a living from cultivating dates and raising camels.
Only a small bunch of tourists decide to come to this area, so if you ever find one of these shacks where the Bedouin live, stop there and you’ll get all their attention. They don’t speak English at all, but they will be happy to take you around the farm and offer you camel milk.
What seems incredible to me is that, if they wanted, they could live a comfortable life thanks to the help of their government but, they have so much love for the desert and their camels, that they have decided to live as their ancestors used to.
Visiting Camel Farms
You will never see as many camels as in Liwa Oasis.
They are everywhere, either walking randomly among the dunes or in camel farms, which are often run by real Emirati Bedouin and, like I said, if you are lucky and brave enough, you can have some fresh camel milk.
Epic desert fortresses
Besides desert adventure, a top Liwa Oasis tourist attraction is visiting the few fortresses which have been amazingly restored and, somehow, look like sand castles.
Other desert activities
I am not a big fan of that but, if you are into dune bashing, quad riding, etc. your hotel can organize absolutely any activity you want. Actually, you are likely to see a few people riding over the dunes.
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How to get to Liwa Oasis
As I said previously, Liwa Oasis is located 250km south of Abu Dhabi, next to the border with Saudi Arabia.
From Dubai, it is a good 3 to 4-hour drive, depending on how fast you go and the only way to come here is by car.
This isn’t a day trip, and you should really spend the night here in order to enjoy it to its fullest.
More information to complement your visit to Liwa
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
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17 comments
Hey Joan, great article! Having lived in the UEA for 3 years as a teenager, Liwa has a special place in heart. These photos really capture the magic of the empty quarter. Thanks for transporting me back 🙂
I m travellig to Liwa from Abu Dhabi. Any suggestoons for accomodations any tours if I m driving my own vehicle.
Hi Joan, thanks for this inspiring article! Do you have any infos about camping in/around Liwa Oasis?
Thanks and best wishes,
Vanessa
Hi Vanessa, yes, camping is very doable. Just be careful where you camp though, as some locals drive like crazy around the dunes, so try to pitch your tent in a spot where you are visible
Hi Joan,
I have send you an e mail about liwa.
Hope you have time to read it.
Thanks!
Hi Joan,
I love your blog – it’s really helped me with my travel plans to the Middle East. However, I have a question for you. I know you said to avoid travelling in the UAE or Oman during the summer months, but I will have a 3-day layover between Tajikistan and Iraqi Kurdistan in early September due to my flights going through Dubai. I wasn’t too keen on Dubai the last time I was there (granted I was jet-lagged and I was there for less than 24 hours, but it was March and already oppressively hot) so was thinking of spending my three days in Muscat instead, as it seems more culturally interesting. Or would the Liwa Oasis be a better bet? (1 day in Dubai, 2 days there). I know it’s not an ideal time to travel to the area, but this is what I’ve got. I’d rather not spend the entire time trapped inside a shopping mall or my hotel, but I want to be realistic about the heat and things I can do. So basically, what’s the best option in either the UAE or Oman in early September? I don’t have to stick to the big cities but on the other hand I don’t want to be travelling too much in high desert heat either.
Hi Rachelle, Liwa Oasis is my most favorite place in all the Arab Peninsula, so I would definitely tell you to visit it, as it is so different from anything else you will see. Muscat is also great but it is not the highlight of Oman. I recently wrotr a guide to Muscat, you may want to check it here: https://againstthecompass.com/en/visit-muscat/
Hello Joan
Are there any problems to go by hired car from Abu Dhabi to Liwa Oasis?
Regards from Switzerland
Pete
Hi Pete, no problem at all, I have the done it before
Dear Joan,
Thanks for promoting Liwa and the UAE. I wish i had met you while visiting the area, i could have shown you around and guided you to many places.
Anyhow, should you plan to re-visit Liwa, you will be my guest
All the best and keep posting your adventures in Arabia.
Karim “sand god”
So excited that we booked a day tour to Liwa from Dubai. Long drive but your article helped us pull the trigger! I’ll post back when we return.
Thank you Tammy, I’ll really appreciate your feedback 🙂
Thank you so much for this article!! I am planning to do a trip there too and its so helpful. By any chance, do you happen to know where the photo of you on the dune was taken at? Just an estimated Google Maps pin? Thatd be so helpful. I wanns take my mom there!!
Hi Max, you can look for Moreeb dune. We took it from the top. Cheers,
Thank you for the article. We want to visit a working camel farm in Liwa. Can you please give us a location?
Thank you
You can find one on the road to Moreeb dune
The railway is used to transport granulated sulphur, a byproduct of the petroleum industry. (You can make fertilizer and lots of other stuff from sulphur.)
The railway is not for dates – even a lot of dates aren’t enough dates to warrant a railway…
You can also get to Liwa easily by bus from Abu Dhabi (capital express).
There’s even a local bus that connects the different parts of the Liwa oasis along the east-west main road (Eastern and Western Mahadir) with the main bus station in Liwa town. (However I’d still recommend a car because service isn’t that frequent and the bus won’t go everywhere you want or need to go – but it definitely does exist and could be convenient to pick up someone joining your group later in the adventure…)