By Joan Torres 20 Comments Last updated on September 30, 2024
Despite the war in Ukraine, Belarus is still open to international travelers.
As you may know, tourism in Belarus is kind of in an embryonic stage.
For some reason we don’t know – but probably related to Belarus being a dictatorial regime – Belarussian authorities have never shown any interest in promoting their country as a tourist destination, and proof of that is that getting a visa has always been a tedious, complicated process.
Things, however, are changing and, since they started to liberalize their visa regime at the beginning of 2019, more travelers are deciding who each and every day decide to discover the wonders of White Russia each and every day.
With more than 11,000 lakes and 40% of its territory composed of misty forest, Belarus is a beautiful country to travel to, home to dreamy castles – some of them part of UNESCO – and a majestic capital named Minsk, besides all its WWII-related history.
Moreover, if you are interested in the history of the Soviet Union, you will have a lot to do in Belarus, because nowhere else is as Soviet, not even Transnistria, as the country is filled with endless memorials and symbols that pay tribute to the former Communist regime.
Having said that, this Belarus travel guide contains tips and everything you need to know to travel to Belarus, from visas to top experiences and much, much more!
I also recommend you read: 7 very weird things to do in Belarus
With all the current sanctions, IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Belarus.
Note that despite the Ukraine war, you can still get a visa for Belarus as usual.
Belarus is the only European country that presents certain difficulties when it comes to getting a visa.
There are 3 types of tourist visas:
Up to 80 nationalities can get a VOA valid for 30 days.
Here you can see the updated list of countries.
However, keep in mind:
The VOA is only available for those who enter and exit through Minsk International Airport
This means that if you wish to travel to Belarus overland, the VOA won’t be available, so you will have to get it the old-fashioned way, at the embassy which, apparently, is a pain in the ass.
Sometimes they ask for these things, sometimes they don’t.
They did ask for my travel insurance but didn’t ask for proof of funds.
Remember that you should only use this option if:
To give you some idea, what the embassy usually asks for is:
Requirements may vary slightly from embassy to embassy, so I recommend you contact your nearest one for more details. On average, the visa costs 60€ and takes 5 working days.
Brest and Grodno are two border cities with Poland and they have the peculiarity that they can be visited without a visa as long as:
To get your visa, you will have to fill a form and you can find more details here
Something that sucks about traveling to Belarus is that you need to register at the police every 5 days. This means that, if you plan to spend 30 days in the country, you will have to register 6 times.
It is an old, nonsense, Soviet rule.
The first time you can easily do it through this link, for free, but then you will have to go to the Department of Citizenship and Migration in Minsk – if you are not in Minsk, ask your hotel – and pay the equivalent of 15€.
It’s a tedious, unnecessary process.
Some hotels – just the good ones – can do it for you.
Welcome to my world.
We missed the second registration deadline, after 10 days, so when we came back to Minsk, we went to the immigration office and the only thing that happened was that we had to pay a fine of just 1 base amount (the Soviet concept) for each day we missed the deadline, so 51 rubles (25.5 + 25.5).
But, what happens if you leave the country without registering?
I don’t really know but at customs, they do ask for it, so you could miss your flight. My advice is that you should register.
Due to current sanctions, most travel insurance companies don’t cover for travel in Belarus, except for IATI.
I recommend it because:
As long as you have a valid visa, you can enter Belarus from the following countries, both by train and bus, but the train will always be more epic.
You can’t travel from Russia to Belarus – It’s a bit weird but apparently, between Russia and Belarus there is a treatment similar to the EU, so there are no borders. Russians and Belarussians can cross it freely but, since there is no passport control, foreigners are not allowed to use it.
Update:
Because of the Russian-Ukraine war, European Airlines are not flying to Minsk anymore, but you can still fly from Istanbul (Turkish Airlines) and Dubai (Emirates).
The most Soviet city in the world is filled with Stalinist buildings and loads of Communist-related stuff. Read my Minsk guide.
What used to be the border between USSR and Europe is today an epic open-air museum where you can see all types of weapons, tanks, and many other surprises.
Belarus is also home to dreamy castles, today UNESCO World Heritage sites.
I recommend you visit Mir and Nesvizh castles.
From a village burnt by the Nazis to the defensive line of Brest, Belarus suffered greatly in the German invasion and today, the country is filled with many interesting memorials and museums.
40% of Belarus is covered by forest and it is home to more than 11,000 lakes, most of them being concentrated in Braslav.
And don’t forget to read the most bizarre attractions to see in Belarus
Belarus is today living the most intense protests in the country’s history. Massive demonstrations against dictator Alexander Lukashenko, who is answering a peaceful movement with repression and more repression.
Probably, a travel blog isn’t the right place to talk about politics, but I also believe that having a little knowledge about the political situation in a certain country will help you understand what’s going on when you travel there.
Anyways.
Not sure if you know that Belarus is considered an authoritarian regime, the last dictatorship in Europe and the country with the most long-lasting President.
No press freedom, fraudulent elections, no real separation of powers and the only European country that keeps the death penalty.
Obviously, Belarus isn’t as repressive as China, Turkmenistan or Eritrea, not even close, but in comparison with Europe, it is, and, because of that, it has been always heavily criticized by the West, especially because Belarus prefers Russia as a partner, and depends on Russia for 20% of its exports, plus all its natural resources.
You will also be interested in our Russia travel guide.
Another fact and, in fact, something that makes visiting Belarus particularly appealing, is that it still is a very Soviet country, more than any other former republic.
Actually, the President grew up in a very rural area of Belarus named Mogilev, so he had a strong Soviet education, the reason why, even now, he is very nostalgic and decorates the country with images of Lenin and hammer & sickle logos.
Besides, the state controls 80% of the country’s production, so you can still find collective farms and there is a strong protectionism that bans the entrance of many foreign companies.
They never really abandoned Communism but, you know what?
I won’t be the person who defends Mr. Lukashenko because he is a dictator, yes, but we also have to accept that he has done great things for the country’s economy: the unemployment rate is very low and the country seems very developed, more than any other Soviet country, including Ukraine, where, despite it being a great country to travel, you see a lot of misery.
Read my Moldova travel guide
Sometimes, it can prove difficult to find a specific characteristic of Belarussian culture, as today, Belarus is a strange mix of all its respective neighbors, but mainly because Belarusian culture has been oppressed for centuries, from when they were part of Lithuania to the Soviet Union, especially during Stalin’s rule.
Because of this, I heard that many Belarussians don’t have a very strong national identity and proof of that is that a significant number would support a potential annexation with Mother Russia.
The Government doesn’t help much either. The President is the most pro-Russian dude ever and I read that, except for a few specific occasions, he never speaks in Belarussian publicly.
However, today, the Belarussian national identity is quickly growing stronger and stronger every day, especially among young Belarussian students, who fight for greater recognition of their culture.
By the way, we can’t deny the fact that, in many Eastern European countries, especially Ukraine and Moldova, people look kind of serious at the beginning, sometimes even angry, but it is just the way they are and, when you get to know them, they are very nice.
In Belarus, I was expecting sort of the same thing but everybody I met was very happy and smiley. I was very surprised.
The official language in Belarus is Belarussian, along with Russian.
They are close but different, and I believe they have the same relationship as Spanish with Catalan and Portuguese.
As in their culture, the Belarussian language has also suffered from repression to the extent that Stalin promoted a reform that consisted of removing all those grammatical elements that came from Polish or Lithuanian languages. I don’t know if current Belarussian is still a consequence of that reform.
Most Belarussians belong to the Belarussian Orthodox Church, a union of the Russian Orthodox Church with Belarussian territories.
Belarus is a Slavic country and a former USSR republic and as such, their food is quite similar to their neighbors’.
In fact, in my humblest opinion, their typical dishes are not very different from Ukraine’s, as borsch, dranikis, salo and the local version of varenyky will always be on all menus.
In any case, Belarussian cuisine is heavy, good for winter, and potato seems to be the basis of pretty much any meal.
Actually, I read somewhere that Belarus has the highest consumption of potato per capita in the world.
On this page, you can see a more detailed description of food in Belarus.
These are the star dishes but they also have other food which has a stronger Polish or Lithuanian influence, like Zhurek, a black bread soup with animal fat and vegetables.
Belarus travel tip: In cities, something you need to know is that for lunch, most restaurants will offer a business lunch deal for 4-6 rubles, but quantities tend to be small.
Did you know that Belarus is an important IT hub in the region?
They actually have what is known as High-Tech-Park, a version of Silicon Valley.
Anyways, this might be the reason why the internet in Minsk is so fast, one of the fastest connections in the continent, and in the rest of the country, it is pretty good.
Almost all cafés have good Wi-Fi and, as for mobile internet, I bought a SIM card at MTS, the mobile company that has an egg as a logo. I think I paid around $10 for a SIM card filled with enough data for 2 weeks.
You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.
Your connection will be much safer.
Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Belarus.
I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap.
If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling.
In Belarus, they use the Belarussian ruble (BYR) and approximately:
1 USD = 3.30 BYR
If you look on the internet, you will see that the exchange rate they give for 1USD is 32000BYR, and well, I guess this is the actual exchange rate but recently, the government switched all coins and notes to brand-new ones whose value was divided by 10,000, so all new notes and coins are worth 1, 2, 5, 20, etc.
Belarus is a modern country, so you find ATMs everywhere and credit cards can be used in many places.
Exchanging money is easy as well, you can do it in any bank, but I don’t recall seeing exchange offices as such.
Visiting Belarus is cheap as per Western Europe standards, but it is more expensive than its cousins Ukraine and Moldova. Some bars and restaurants in Minsk are as expensive as Spain or Italy.
Here the most typical costs:
Bear in mind that this is an average/approximation.
Visiting Belarus is as safe as in any other European country, perhaps even safer.
In Minsk at least, everything is so clean and civilized and I don’t recall seeing any antisocial behavior, something very common in any European capital.
What you do need to keep in mind is that Belarus is heavily militarized and you see soldiers everywhere, so be careful when taking pictures.
On the other hand, remember that KGB is still a thing in Belarus – in Minsk you can see the building from outside – and its core function hasn’t changed much since the fall of the USSR, meaning that they are almost as repressive as they used to be, with the tiny difference that today they control the internet as well, so I recommend you always connect with a VPN when you visit Belarus.
Here you can read how to find the best VPN for travel.
Finding accommodation in Belarus isn’t a problem.
For backpackers, you can find several hostel options in Minsk, Grodno, and Brest.
In the rest of the cities, there are no hostels but guesthouses and economical hostels cost around $20-$25 for a double room and tend to be pretty good.
We always tried to rent full apartments.
You can find all options on Booking.com
Traveling by public transportation in Belarus is great.
From Uzbekistan to Belarus, the Soviet train experience is the same, same train, same system. From Minsk’s station, you can take a train to practically any city, but if your final destination is a village, you may have to take a bus after.
Furthermore, it is very cheap. One train ticket (economical class) from Minsk to Brest costs 13BYR, around $5, for more than 300km.
Belarus travel tip: You can check timings and book your tickets on this page.
Marshrutka means mini-bus in Russian, something like that, and it is the common way to move around in all Soviet republics. Usually, they tend to be old and pretty packed but in Belarus, they are brand-new and some of them even have Wi-Fi.
It is slightly more expensive than the train but still cheap. We paid 15 rubles (around $7) for the journey between Brest and Grodno, around 250km.
A super guide, the one I personally bought. Bradt has the most insightful guides and they always focus on off the beaten track countries.
Otherwise, if you are traveling all around the region, you could also get the generic Eastern Europe guide, which includes one chapter about tourism in Belarus.
Belarussian writer and Nobel Prize winner. Her books talk about the Soviet Union, but they always have a special focus on Belarussian people. These are the ones I read:
Voices of Chernobyl – Human stories that explain the consequences of Chernobyl.
Boys in Zinc – A book that compiles testimonies from people who were somehow related to the Afghan-Soviet war, from soldiers to prostitutes and mothers of deceased soldiers.
Get a KINDLE! – Buying a Kindle has been one of my best recent acquisitions.
As you may imagine, the whole country is frozen but, if you don’t mind traveling with snow and your only objective is visiting Minsk and any other cities, it should be all right.
It can get hot but nothing extreme. Best time to explore its nature, especially Braslav Lakes.
For me, autumn is the best season, especially because of the autumn colors, but spring should be good as well.
I traveled to Belarus during the first 2 weeks of November. We had some gray days, but most days were sunny and the forest was at its best.
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
If you found this Belarus travel guide useful and have any comment/suggestion, kindly leave a comment, thanks!
From Syria to Iraq in Pakistan, Against the Compass is finally running expeditions to the most epic and off-the-beaten-track countries.
We have scheduled expeditions for every month of the year.
20 comments
Great review! There is something I do not agree with you. Is Europe a democracy? Not anymore I do not think so! To the point that governments feel the right to decide what we should take in our bodies!
At least the Belarus government has clear the game on the jab!
And are not forcing their citizens to be injected as the European countries and the western world are doing!
Europe, US, Australia, New Zealand, India, China, South America governments have blood of innocent people in their hands, corruption is rampant and censorship in scientific research and information from credible sources is far from little!
are we still talking about tourism in Belarus?
Thank you for replying, as you say yourself in your text, is important to understand what is the reality of the country we are visiting, their good and bad.
This is a copy and paste from your text:
Not sure if you know that Belarus is considered an authoritarian regime, the last dictatorship in Europe and the country with the most long-lasting President.
No press freedom, fraudulent elections, no real separation of powers and the only European country that keeps the death penalty. “..
Do you think there is now a freedom of press in the western world?
Are you aware of what governments and press information are covering up and upholding from us in matters that are threatening our own lives and existence?
Do you know how many thousands if not millions have died unnecessary in our countries in the last 2 years and our still dying?
If you do not know this information send me an email I will send you where to find it.
Maybe you can help to safe one life!
Nothing against you! Angry about what is still happening and so much ignorance going on.
Take care Still I a nice review! 😉
Hi, very informative, as all your posts! Would be great to get some updated info though. Since it has become really difficult to reach Minsk via plane, do you know how the current situation at the borders is like? can you still travel to Belarus from Poland or Lithuania or are the borders closed?
Hi Ben, I am not entirely sure, but would love to know 🙂
I am from Poland and I am reading about the situation. I am not an expert, but I try to write as much as I know:
The land borders are open. Polish and Lithuanian citizens coming from their countries can enter on a visa-free regime (and see every place in the country). How about the other nationalities – I don’t know, but I guess they probably can enter only the visa-free areas as it was before.
Getting by air is almost impossible due to sanctions, but if you fly from the country that didn’t impose them, then I believe the visa-free regime is still in force.
I agree with Ben — very informative, as are all your posts. I travel as a tourist, not an investigative journalist. Hope to get to Belarus soon, as a tourist. Thanks for all your good work. Rosemary, 16 April 2023.
Thanks a lot 🙂
Hi, Joan, two more things:
1) You say, “If you want to visit the countryside or the northern forests and lakes, it is better to come outside of the winter months.” But if you’re planning to camp, AVOID JUL AND AUG, because the mosquitoes are fierce and will eat you alive. May, Jun or Sep are the best months for camping. Christa and Wolfgang (Austrians) told me this, and it was their first-hand experience. They barely survived the mossies.
2) You can’t book a hotel in Minsk via Booking.com right now (16 Apr 2023), but it seems you can book directly with the hotels themselves, at least with Hotel Belarus. I tried it this morning as an experiment, and it seemed to work okay.
Joan, you’re a man, right? I ask because Joan is a girl’s name in English.
Over and out, Rosemary.
Thanks for that Rosemary! Yes, I am a man, Joan is a male name in Catalan language 🙂
Hi Joan, I am a Canadian living in Ireland with friends in Belarus. I want to visit them but since the war they have shut down the visa free travel into Minsk because there are no flights from the EU. I am asking you if I get a proper visa and meet the requirements (ie insurance etc) will I be allowed to cross a land border such as Lithuania? Thanks for your help.
Hi Terry, as far as I know, visas are being issued on arrival and you can fly from Istanbul. I know people who’ve been there recently.
It’s good to hear from you again, Joan. Belarus is still very high up on my travel list. I think foreigners can’t cross into Belarus via a land border, but only by flying into Minsk.
Hi Joan, great article and blog.
I am having some problems to find correct/updated information about Visa-free regions Grodno and Brest.
On official websites it seems to be still in place, but in Vilnius Eurolines office they told me not.
I know you have to get hotel reservations and medical insurance, but I wouldn’t like to get on the bus and be left down at the border. My idea was to travel to Grodno from Vilnius, then move to Brest and from there back to Poland. Can you anyhow verify if this is possible? Thank you so much in advance!
2 JUNE 2024: I’ve just come back from a 2-week holiday in Belarus. Can confirm everything that Joan has already told us. Some details:
FLYING TO MINSK: I flew Vienna-Istanbul-Tashkent-Minsk.
VISA FREE: No visas required for EU citizens.
SOME LAND BORDERS ARE OPEN: I met a German couple who came into Belarus (from Lithuania or Poland, can’t remember what they said). They needed a visa, which they got in Germany without problem. They had an 8-hour wait at the border, which isn’t bad, because we’ve all heard of 15-20 hours’ wait. Nightmare!
INSURANCE that includes Belarus: IATI, like Joan says.
ARRIVING AT MINSK AIRPORT: I had to show my wad of Euro banknotes (more than enough to cover my visit) and also had proof of IATI travel insurance in my cabin bag, ready to show if asked (wasn’t asked).
SIM CARD: On my arrival, my private guide took me to the Galileo Shopping Centre next to the Minsk Railway Station, where I bought a Belarus SIM card at the MTS shop (spelled MTC in Cyrillic).
CASH: My Austrian bank card and Visa credit card worked in the ATMs and at Europcar without problem.
PRIVATE TOUR: I had an 8-day private tour organized by GO EAST travel agent in Hamburg, who worked with their Belarus partner, DITRIB in Minsk, to organize a fantastic tour for me — taking in MINSK, BRASLAV LAKES, DUDUTKI, YELNA SWAMP, BREST, OPSA LAKE with ruined palace that you can walk through, Belovezhskaya Pushcha National Park, POLOTSK with geographical centre point of Europe, GRODNO, LIDA, PINSK (my own request), STALIN LINE. Also the castles of NEZVIZH and MIR.
BEST HOTEL: The Hotel Minsk. Best location, excellent restaurant and bar. Also has a Europcar desk in their lobby and a large car park at the back of the hotel.
REGISTRATION: The hotels do this for you. Every night must be accounted for, otherwise you can’t get out of Belarus! The Hotel Minsk forgot to register me for one of my nights, and when flying out, the Immigration Officer and me had an in-depth investigation into the matter, including a phone call to the hotel!
HIRING A CAR: No problem, at the Hotel Minsk!
ME DRIVING: I had the car for 4 days. Drove to LIDA again, POLOTSK again, PINSK again, and to KHATYN, KURAPATY FOREST, and the highest point of Belarus (near Minsk) at DZYARZHYNSKAYA HARA (all of 345 metres high).
NAVIGATION: I used Google Maps, with my Belarus SIM card.
Hola Joan, no sé si hablas catalán o castellano pero por tu nombre supongo que eres de la costa mediterránea, sin embargo mi pregunta es: he visto que ahora es posible viajar a Bielorrusia sin visa como español, es eso cierto? Y se puede ir desde Polonia sin problema? Quiero estar seguro antes de ir! Un fuerte abrazo muchas gracias pro tus aportes! Sobretodo el de Abkhazia!
Hola Marc, se puede viajar sin visado si vuelas a Minsk, pero no si entrar por tierra.
Hi Joan, I have a update regarding the visa requirements. European citizens now can enter via land borders visa free from the 19th of july 2024. See https://mfa.gov.by/en/press/news_mfa/f52b67856b84f2d5.html
Hi,
Thread is very useful. Thanks for all the updates and detailed info. I am wondering about the land crossings as this probably how I would go. Does anyone have any further information?
@Rosemary, you mentioned that some crossing are open? Do you have any specific info on which? BTW, why did the German need visas? I thought Germans (and also us Brits) don’t need a visa. ?
Thanks in advance for any response.
Happy travels!
Hi Chris, the young German couple did mention which land border they used, but unfortunately I no longer remember which one it was. It might have been the Lithuanian one. VISA: I can’t speak for Brits, but EU citizens (like me) DO need a Belarus visa if we enter the country by a land border. The German couple said it was surprisingly fast to get it (from the Belarus embassy). If we fly into Minsk airport, we don’t need a visa. Anyway, when I was in Brest, my private driver/guide took me to see the border with Poland. We were right there at the border crossing. Not only was that land border open, but to my surprise, the line of cars wasn’t even long. Cheers, Rosemary.