Turkmenistan may lack the world-class Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan, the mountains of Kyrgyzstan, or the lively bazaars of Tajikistan, but it more than compensates by being the most bizarre of all the Stans—and, some would argue, one of the strangest countries on Earth.
Ranked alongside Eritrea and North Korea as one of the world’s most closed and authoritarian states, Turkmenistan is precisely the kind of place that draws intrepid travelers: a hermetic nation where everyday life is shaped by eccentric laws, personality cults, and a reality that feels almost surreal.
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Quick facts
Capital: Ashgabat
Population: 7 million (105th)
Language: Turkmen (a Turkic language closely related to Turkish and Azerbaijani) is the official language. Russian is still in cities and among older generations.
Area: 491,210km² (52nd largest country)
Visa
Tourist visas can be arranged through a local tour operator, but you must book a full tour with them. Check our Turkmenistan Expeditions here. Alternatively, intrepid travelers with plenty of time may apply for a transit visa (3-7 days) at any Turkmenistan embassy, like in Tehran, Aktau, Tashkent, etc. Processing time is from 2 to 6 weeks.
Access internet
Internet in Turkmenistan is one of the worst in the world, so don’t rely on having connection throughout your trip. Email apps are the most reliable, but WhatsApp and social networks don’t really work, except for a specific café in Ashgabat. Also, VPNs don’t seem to work in Turkmenistan.
Tours for Turkmenistan
Against the Compass has several scheduled expeditions to Turkmenistan every year.
March 6th to 13th, 2026
Money
The official currency is the Turkmenistani Manat
Officially, 1 USD = 3.5 TMT
However, you can change at the black market and exchange 1 USD for up to 18 TMT, almost six times more.
There are no ATMs and cards aren’t accepted. Bring all your money in cash.
Independent travel in Turkmenistan
The only place where you are allowed to travel independently is the capital, Ashgabat. In the rest of the country, travel is only permitted with a local, certified guide. The only exception applies to the few travelers on a transit visa, who are allowed to travel on their own directly to an exit border, without deviating from the original route.
Top experiences in Turkmenistan
Camping next to a burning crater
For many travellers, the never-ending Darvaza crater is the highlight of Turkmenistan.
Experiencing a hyper-controlled capital with almost no people
Ashgabat feels like a staged city: spotless marble, monumental scale, almost no pedestrians, and rules you don’t fully understand.
Exploring Silk Road ruins completely alone
Unlike in neighbouring Uzbekistan, you’ll most likely have these vast ruins entirely to yourself.
Observing everyday life under a closed system
Visit a bazaar and quietly observe how people live in one of the world’s most closed countries.
tips for Turkmenistan
Accommodation
There are decent hotels throughout the country. It’s not possible to book them online, but most can be arranged through a local tour operator. Check our Turkmenistan itinerary to see the hotels we recommend.
Getting in
Ashgabat International Airport (ASB) has connections with Dubai (flydubai), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), and now even Rome (Turkmenistan Airlines).
Land borders are also open, but make sure you tell your tour operator to include your exact entry point in your visa.
Transportation
Taking photos is no longer as restricted in Turkmenistan as it once was (since 2023). However, you will still need to purchase a camera ticket at most tourist attractions.
In Ashgabat, photography is generally allowed in public areas, but there are plenty of undercover security officers who may ask you not to take photos in sensitive places such as train stations and local bazaars.