\nA guide to Tibetan food in Ladakh<\/a>
\nKhardung La: Driving over the highest road the world on a scooter<\/a><\/p>\n
Ladakh\u00a0is a region that belongs to\u00a0the Indian state Jammu and Kashmir, which extends from the Kunlun mountain range to the Great Himlayas<\/strong>.<\/p>\n The whole area\u00a0of Ladakh is located at a very high altitude. Its capital, Leh, is at 3,500 meters above sea level, and has a large number of peaks\u00a0reaching over\u00a06,000 meters<\/p>\n Here you find:<\/p>\n Top things to do in Ladakh<\/a> Ladakh might be a small region within India, but it’s actually double the size of Switzerland. Nevertheless, the unpopulated\u00a0mountains occupy most part of it. In my opinion, the\u00a0top things to do and see in Ladakh<\/strong> are:<\/p>\n If you arrive by plane, the capital is going to be your first destination. Leh is a fantastic place to explore. Leh palace, the most iconic building of the city, is definitely worth a visit. You can also watch the sunset from Shanti stupa, visit Tibetan refugee markets or simply wander around its narrow alleys and streets.<\/p>\n In Leh, you will get a\u00a0first glimpse of what Tibetan culture\u00a0<\/strong>is like.<\/p>\n A vast sea of sand dunes in the Himalaya itself. Can you believe it? Nubra Valley is a desert similar to those of Arabia but located at 4,000 meters above sea level\u00a0and\u00a0surrounded by the Himalayan range. Here you also find two-humped hairy camels.<\/p>\n Tibetans claim that the origin of this desert comes from Tethys<\/strong>, a sea from the depths from which the Himalayas are supposed to have risen.<\/p>\n This is nothing less than the highest motorable road in the world<\/a>. It connects Leh with Nubra Valley and its highest point passes over 5,600 meters.<\/p>\n A lake located at 4,350m above sea level which extends across India and China.\u00a0People go to this lake to see the stunning landscape and for hiking.<\/p>\n In my opinion, the most beautiful gompa<\/em> out there in Ladakh, having been built and perfectly shaped on the top of a steep hill. Looking at it is merely impressive.<\/p>\n The highest lake in Ladakh (4,522m) and one of the most beautiful ones\u00a0owing to its surroundings, green pastures and white peaks<\/p>\n Though the most touristic gompa<\/em>, this fortification\u00a0is almost like a small town. It has shops, restaurants, a hotel and a huge monk community living there.<\/p>\n Ladakh is the place in the world where Tibetan culture is more accessible. Whereas foreigners have always had restrictions when going to Tibet, in Ladakh you can talk freely, walk around and go wherever you want. If you want to know more about\u00a0it, I suggest you read this post about Tibetan culture in Ladakh.<\/p>\n If you travel to Ladakh during July, Hemis monastery is a must to visit since it’s where the Hemis Festival takes place, a popular festival famous for its masked parade. It’s one of the most sacred rituals in Ladakh.<\/p>\n Hiking around the unique Himalayan range of Ladakh is one of the biggest highlights of the trip. There are an endless number of treks adapted for any\u00a0kind of traveler. For more information, check on the Trekking section of this guide<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n Keep reading: Kashmir Travel Guide<\/a><\/p>\n Ladakh region is already off the path, but during high season (July & August), some\u00a0spots may get busy. Places like Leh, popular gompas<\/em>, Khardung La pass and Nubra Valley are probably among\u00a0the most crowded ones.<\/p>\n If you want to avoid the crowds, Pangong Tso Lake<\/strong> and\u00a0Tso Moriri Lake<\/strong> are the perfect options. Trekking is also a good way to get off the beaten track, even in popular treks like Markha Valley<\/a>.<\/p>\n Last, if you are renting a vehicle,\u00a0driving the empty roads<\/strong> of Ladakh is an awesome experience and\u00a0there are endless unexplored villages<\/strong> where you can randomly stop and\u00a0look around. I suggest you drive to Chemrey<\/strong> and explore\u00a0the surrounding area.<\/p>\n By the way, if you decide to visit popular gompas<\/em> like Thiksey or Hemis, it’s better to go in the afternoon or early evening to avoid the crowds.<\/p>\n Ladakhis are both ethnically and linguistically close to Tibetans.\u00a0During the 8th century, a royal Tibetan annexed the region to himself and as a consequence, a huge number of Tibetans came and established roots there.<\/p>\n In addition, in the past decades, after the invasion of China, thousands of Tibetans have been seeking refuge in Ladakh. Ladakhis are kind people always willing to help or establish a conversation.<\/p>\n Ladakhis neither look like Indians nor feel like Indians. I turned out that i was in Ladakh during Indian Independence Day. In India, this day is quite a big deal, but in Ladakh, it was just a normal day like any other one. Yes, there were a few flags hanged from a few\u00a0balconies, but that’s it. They told me they don’t feel Indian. Nevertheless, don’t get confused and think that they don’t get along with the rest of the country. In fact, they are really happy with the Indian government because it gives them a significant level of autonomy and freedom.<\/p>\n Like any trekking destination, traveling with proper travel insurance is a must.<\/p>\n In the mountains, you can get injured very easily and, if you got seriously injured, you may have to be rescued.<\/p>\n Therefore, I always recommend World Nomads<\/a>, as it is the only company that provides with unlimited medical coverage plus it covers a big bunch of adventure activities. For example, the basic plan already covers for trekking up to 6,000 meters.<\/p>\n Ladakhi is the most common language used across the region and it’s merely a Tibetan dialect<\/strong>. Additionally,\u00a0Hindi and Urdu are\u00a0widely used among educated people.<\/p>\n Some useful Tibetan\u00a0words<\/strong> are:<\/p>\n Hello:\u00a0Jullay I think Ladakh is one of the places in Asia where English is more widely spoken. In cities and larger towns, almost everybody speaks a fairly comprehensible English. But the surprising thing\u00a0came on\u00a0the\u00a0day when, while driving with my scooter, I randomly stopped to take a picture of an old peasant\u00a0lady who was collecting wheat. I approached her and kindly asked her if I could take\u00a0a\u00a0picture. Then she\u00a0told me in \u00a0English: ”Can I see it?”. I was shocked. We started to talk and she even gave me her address so I could send her the picture.<\/p>\n OK, her English was not great, but if you guys have ever traveled around Asia you will understand what\u00a0am I\u00a0talking about. It was the first time ever I could establish a conversation with a random peasant in Asia.<\/p>\n Since most of the population is Tibetan, Tibetan Buddhism<\/strong> is the predominant religion in Ladakh and it plays a key role Ladakhi everyday life. According to a\u00a0monk I met, families turn at least one of their sons in to Buddhism. Strong Buddhist faith can be felt across all Ladakh, in every village and in every monastery, and that is definitely one of the highlights when traveling to Ladakh.<\/p>\n Nevertheless, a large\u00a0Muslim<\/strong> population also lives in this region, especially in the area bordering\u00a0Kashmir Valley.<\/p>\n Food in Ladakh is sort of unique and that’s why I thought it should deserve an extensive separate post. Click here to read about what Tibetan cuisine is like in Ladakh<\/a>.<\/p>\n Sadly, alcohol in Ladakh is sort of a sensitive topic and it’s not widely available. Apparently, there’s been some issues with alcohol and nowadays it’s quite regulated. You can find it, but only in a few places.<\/p>\n Bars and restaurants have to pay huge fees and mostly\u00a0can’t afford them. Nevertheless, please don’t start crying yet. There are loads of restaurants who serve it\u00a0illegally (or unofficially, like they like to call it). They bring it inside paper bags and instead of a glass you get a coffee cup.<\/p>\n Typically they just serve beer and two brands are available: King Fisher<\/strong>, a 5.5% beer brewed in Bangalore which I personally don’t like it because it doesn’t have much gas and God Father<\/strong>, which is the Kashmir state local beer. The label claims\u00a0to have 8% alcohol but it’s not true. It’s a very light beer but then I realized that the label actually says: maximum 8%. Strange, right?<\/p>\n Note:<\/strong> Remember that Ladakh is a high altitude region and therefore you get drunk way quicker. It can be fun, I know. But if you are having a headache or you are not sure about your acclimatization, you had better stay away from it.<\/p>\n While Ladakh is a cheap destination, according to Indians it’s the most expensive\u00a0place within India. Let me tell you what’s the cost of the most typical things:<\/p>\n I have never in my life seen\u00a0as many guesthouses as in Leh. There’s a guest house on absolutely every street and corner. That’s the way locals make a living. Please note that these prices\u00a0refer to high season (summer).<\/p>\n Budget option: You can find very basic rooms for as cheap as 500-800 rupees per night. Normally, these guest houses won’t have internet, and other than\u00a0a\u00a0thin mattress and a toilet you won’t\u00a0get anything else. Nevertheless, most of them have a beautiful garden where you can read, relax or have breakfast. A lot of budget guest houses may be found in Karza road, just 5 minutes away from the city center. I don’t think so you need to book in advance. I found one very quickly during the busiest season in August.<\/p>\n More comfortable option: If you are looking for a slightly better\u00a0option with a comfortable mattress and wifi, you can find rooms for 1,600 rupees. I stayed one night in Shaolin guest house<\/strong><\/a>. Mattresses were superb and they had quite a nice common area with pillows. The staff is a lovely and kind Tibetan family. They speak perfect English. They have a garden as well. It’s a bit far from the busy city center, which means that there’s complete silence.<\/p>\n In restaurants where locals eat, meals typically cost between 60 and 100 rupees. In more touristy (and hygienic) restaurants, meals start at 180 rupees, depending on\u00a0what you order. Water costs 30 rupees per liter and coffee 50 rupees.<\/p>\n For a half liter beer, you will pay an average price of 170 rupees.<\/p>\n Private taxis within Leh: Short taxi rides cost around 200 rupees.<\/p>\n Private taxis to other places in Ladakh: Prices vary depending on where you go. Round trip to Nubra Valley costs 6,800 rupees. Khardung La costs 2,600 rupees and Pnagon Lake, 9,500 rupees. Prices are standard and set by the Ladakh government. They shouldn’t charge you more. Please note that all agencies have shared taxi service and they help you out finding other people to share the car with.<\/p>\n Shared local taxis:\u00a0Using\u00a0the local transportation is the cheapest way to move around.\u00a0For example, going from Leh to Thiksey (20km) costs as cheap as 100 rupees.\u00a0For more information, check on the How to move around<\/u>\u00a0section of this guide<\/em>.<\/p>\n Scooter rental: \u00a0Price per day for renting a scooter is 800 rupees. By the way, gas costs 70 rupees per liter.<\/p>\n Motorbike rental: Big bikes cost 1,300 rupees per day. If you are planning to rent it for a long term, I met a guy who\u00a0managed to pay only 800 a day for a full month rental.<\/p>\n Entrance fees to gompas<\/em> cost either 0 or 50 rupees. The only expensive fee I ever paid was when I went to Leh Palace (300 rupees).<\/p>\n You are not forced to tip,\u00a0but people involved in tourism might expect a tip from you. According to locals, both guide and porters may expect a $1-$2 tip per day. But again,\u00a0tipping is not mandatory.<\/p>\n Accommodation:<\/strong> Budget single room: 700 rupees<\/strong><\/p>\n Food:<\/strong> Local breakfast + Lunch in a local restaurant +\u00a0Dinner in a touristy restaurant:\u00a060 + 80 + 220 = 360 rupees<\/strong><\/p>\n Beer:<\/strong> 2 beers: 340 rupees<\/strong><\/p>\n Transportation:<\/strong> Scooter rental + 2 liters of gas: 800 + 140 = 940 rupees<\/strong><\/p>\n Miscellaneous:<\/strong>\u00a0Water + snacks + personal care products =\u00a0300 rupees<\/strong><\/p>\n Total price = 700 + 360 + 340 + 940 + 300\u00a0=\u00a02,640 rupees = 40$ a day<\/strong><\/p>\n Hiking the deserted and remote mountains of Ladakh is one of the best trekking experiences you will ever have, and this is not only my opinion but experienced trekkers who said that the Himalayan range of Ladakh is the wildest, most stunning and dramatic you can ever encounter.<\/p>\n This is a very good question. First, you need to ask yourself: How many days do I want to be trekking? Do I want to sleep in homestays or in a tent? Do I want to go independently or with a guide? Do I want to see people and experience Tibetan culture or just landscape?<\/p>\n There are a lot of different treks which can be adapted to any kind of need. Once you are in Leh, you should go to each and every agency and ask for all options and details. Nevertheless, here’s a quick overview of some of the most popular hikes in Ladakh:<\/p>\n Markha Valley (4 to 9 days):<\/strong> This is the most flexible and adaptable one. It has both culture and amazing landscape. Some sections are pretty challenging. The highest point is 5,200 meters. You can complete the trek in just 4-5 days depending on from where you start. Markha Valley may be one of the most popular treks in Ladakh but still, it is way more authentic than most of the treks offered in Nepal.<\/p>\n Nubra Valley trek (2 to 6 days):<\/strong>\u00a0One of the least frequented treks. There are no home-stays and you need to bring your own camping equipment.<\/p>\n Rumtse to Tsomoriri Trek (8 Days Trek)<\/strong>: Local guides claim that this is their favorite trek.\u00a0It’s characterized by arid plain\u00a0mountains, nomads and amazing high altitude lakes, the most famous being\u00a0 Tsokar & Tso Moriri.<\/p>\n Spituk to Matho (3-4 days)<\/strong>: One of the shortest treks and just perfect for those seeking\u00a0something moderate. This trek goes through Hemis National Park, a place where snow leopards have been spotted.<\/p>\n Lamayuru to Darcha Trek (18 days)<\/strong>: This is one of the longest treks, yet one of the richest in terms of culture. It passes by a big number of Tibetan villages and monasteries, the most famous being Phuktal, a gompa located literally in a waterfall.<\/p>\n First of all, I just want to tell you that there’s no need for booking a trekking tour in advance from your home country<\/strong>. Booking a tour in Leh is significantly cheaper and there are literally dozens of trekking agencies looking desperately for trekking groups. Don’t worry, you won’t miss your trek.<\/p>\n Second of all, you might be wondering… Do I actually need a guide? Or can I do it on my own?<\/strong> That mainly depends on your level of expertise. Me for example, I am not a beginner but I am also not an expert. If I had to go on a 10 days trek on my own, having to bring my own camping equipment and cooking my own food, I would probably starve to death. I don’t know about coordinates or\u00a0how to use a compass. On the other hand, if a trek has\u00a0plenty of homestays and a clear route to follow (like Markha Valley for example), then I would feel comfortable to do it on my own.<\/p>\n My suggestion?<\/strong> Trekking agencies are very helpful and they don’t hesitate in providing you with all the information you need. You can ask them whether it’s feasible or not to do it on your own. They will give you the itinerary and all details and then you just make your own judgment.<\/p>\n Step 1:<\/strong> Go to 10 trekking agencies and ask for all trekking options and details<\/p>\n Step 2:<\/strong> Once you have decided which trekking are you going to do, ask for prices and choose the 3 cheapest agencies<\/p>\n Step 3:<\/strong> Ask these 3 agencies if the guide who will you trek with is actually a local from Ladakh. When summer comes, some Indians from other regions come to Ladakh to work as guides. Dismiss agencies without a Ladakhi guide. An actual\u00a0local guide will be a richer experience.<\/p>\n Step 4:<\/strong> Say that you would like to meet the guide in person. Choose the agency with\u00a0the guide you get best along with.<\/p>\n If you want to know more in depth about prices, accommodation, itinerary, etc., I have written a very detailed guide containing all you need to know to complete the Markha Valley trek<\/a>.<\/p>\n Public transportation as such doesn’t exist in Ladakh.\u00a0Main ways to move around are:<\/p>\n Within Leh<\/strong>, taxi is the only way to move around. Please note that Leh is built on a hill and distances are not short. If you got into Leh by plane, first you need to acclimatize to the high altitude before starting to ascend Leh streets. If your guest house is close to the city center then that’s fine. But if not, on the first day, I strongly recommend you take a cab\u00a0every time you go back to your guest house. Trust me, I know it by experience. On my\u00a0first day, I started walking up and down and got a strong headache by the end of the day. For more information, check out\u00a0High altitude sickness section<\/em><\/p>\n For traveling\u00a0outside of Leh<\/strong>, any guest house or trekking agency can arrange a taxi for you. Prices are standard, therefore there’s no place for negotiation. Moreover, all trekking agencies offer shared taxi service with other tourists. They just find them for you.\u00a0The downside of it is that finding someone else might take a while. I suggest\u00a0you ask as many agencies as possible until you find a full taxi.<\/p>\n Local transportation in Ladakh consists of small vans where people go all squeezed up inside. It’s the cheapest way to move\u00a0around and can be found pretty much everywhere. In Leh, there’s one station right at the city entrance. They are quite effective if you are planning\u00a0to go to other villages or gompas<\/em>. The bad side of it, is that they usually don’t go to remote touristic places like Nubra Valley or Khardung La.<\/p>\n All sorts of vehicles are available for rental at many agencies in Leh. I traveled around the region by scooter, but if you really want to enjoy the roads of Ladakh and want to drive further, you should definitely get one of the big bikes that can be found everywhere.<\/p>\n Getting sick due to high altitude is such a common issue among most travelers that come to Ladakh, especially those who come by plane. Leh is already located at 3,500m above sea level. If you come by plane, the altitude change is too drastic and your body doesn’t have time to acclimatize. Almost everybody I met, suffered a\u00a0headache at least during the first couple of days. The first day you arrive in Leh, just rest and don’t make any efforts or you’ll get sick.<\/p>\n While trekking, high altitude sickness may be an important issue. Here’s a detailed article on medical advice<\/a>.<\/p>\n Yes, Ladakh is a safe place to travel to. Kashmir state has been a turbulent region since India acquired its independence in 1947. Why? Because it has been heavily disputed with Pakistan and there have been multiple insurgencies and protests that involved numerous deaths.<\/p>\n However, Ladakh has always stayed away from all this.\u00a0There has never been any signs of terrorism or violent protests. Tension has fundamentally taken place in the Kashmir Valley, located in the western part of the state, bordering Pakistan.<\/p>\n![\"Ultimate](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Ultimate-guide-travel-ladakh.jpg\")
<\/picture><\/p>\nThe ultimate travel guide to Ladakh<\/h1>\n
\nThe people<\/a>
\nTravel Insurance for Ladakh<\/a>
\nLanguage<\/a>
\nReligion<\/a>
\nFood<\/a>
\nAlcohol<\/a>
\nHow much does it cost<\/a>
\nTrekking<\/a>
\nTransportation<\/a>
\nAltitude sickness<\/a>
\nSafety<\/a>
\nVisa<\/a>
\nWhen to go<\/a>
\nGet in<\/a>
\nMoney<\/a>
\nInternet<\/a><\/p>\nTop things to do in Ladakh<\/h2>\n
Leh<\/h3>\n
![\"Views](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/leh-e1478021132208-1024x658.jpg\")
<\/picture>Nubra Valley<\/h3>\n
Khardung La<\/h3>\n
![\"At](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/me-khardung-la-e1478021251915-1024x699.jpg\")
<\/picture>Pangong Tso Lake<\/h3>\n
Chemrey gompa<\/h3>\n
![\"Chemrey](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/chemrey-gompa-1-1024x680.jpg\")
<\/picture>Tso Moriri Lake<\/h3>\n
Thiksey gompa<\/h3>\n
![\"Thiksey](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/thiksey-gompa-ladakh-1024x680.jpg\")
<\/picture>Learning Tibetan culture<\/h3>\n
![\"Tibetan](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/tibetan-women-traditional-dress-1-1024x645.jpg\")
<\/picture>Hemis gompa<\/h3>\n
Trekking<\/h3>\n
![\"Last](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/ascending-gongmaru-la-pass-e1478021404324-1024x616.jpg\")
<\/picture>Getting off the beaten track<\/h3>\n
The people: the Ladakhis<\/h2>\n
![](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/tibetan-women_.jpg\")
<\/picture>Travel Insurance for Ladakh<\/h2>\n
Get your free quote here<\/h3>\n
Language<\/h2>\n
\n<\/strong>How are you?:\u00a0Khamzang ina-le?
\n<\/strong>Thank you: Jullay<\/strong> – Same as ”Hello”. Literal translation would be ”Greetings”
\nYou’re welcome:\u00a0O’-Jullay
\n<\/strong>I am sorry:\u00a0<\/strong>Gongspa<\/strong> salazad
\n<\/strong>Excuse me:\u00a0Gongspa salazad – <\/i><\/strong>Getting attention<\/p>\nEnglish in Ladakh<\/h3>\n
Religion<\/h2>\n
![\"Little](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/leh-monks-1024x779.jpg\")
<\/picture>Tibetan Food<\/h2>\n
Alcohol in Ladakh<\/h2>\n
![](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/beer-godfather-ladakh.jpg\")
<\/picture><\/p>\nHow much will cost you traveling to Ladakh?<\/h2>\n
Accommodation<\/h3>\n
Food<\/h3>\n
Alcohol<\/h3>\n
Transportation<\/h3>\n
Entrance fees<\/h3>\n
Do you need to tip?<\/h3>\n
Minimum average price per day<\/h2>\n
Trekking in Ladakh<\/h2>\n
Which trek should I\u00a0choose?<\/h3>\n
![\"Kang](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/kang-yaze-green-field-1024x680.jpg\")
<\/picture>Do you need a guide or agency?<\/h3>\n
How to choose the right agency in 4 easy steps<\/h3>\n
![\"Markha](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/the-markha-valley.jpg\")
<\/picture>How to move around: Transportation<\/h2>\n
Private taxi<\/h3>\n
![\"Solitary](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/road-ladakh-e1478029844447-1024x624.jpg\")
<\/picture>Local shared taxi<\/h3>\n
Renting a vehicle<\/h3>\n
![\"Views](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/scooter-highest-road-in-the-world-1024x680.jpg\")
<\/picture>High altitude sickness<\/h2>\n
Is it safe to travel to Ladakh?<\/h2>\n
How do you get a visa?<\/h2>\n
![\"Landing](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/landing-ladakh-e1478029803686-1024x638.jpg\")
<\/picture>![\"Ultimate](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Ultimate-guide-travel-ladakh-685x1024.jpg\")
<\/picture><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"