Against the Compass EXPEDITIONS


Against the Compass EXPEDITIONS, exploring off the beaten track destinations across Central Asia, the Middle East and the Caucasus region.

EXPEDITION 2021 to Kurdistan region in Iraq

Why visiting Iraqi Kurdistan with Against the Compass

From the most mind-blowing landscapes in the Middle East to breathtaking Christian monasteries and some of the oldest cities in the world, Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region within Iraq that will definitely break all stereotypes you may have about any Middle Eastern destination of this kind.

I have visited this region twice, and besides all the awesome places to discover, what I love about Kurdistan is that it managed to become a safe and highly pleasant destination to travel, despite belonging to a failed state which also belongs to the most turbulent region in the world.

Kurdistan, pink area of the map

Iraqi Kurdistan is the ultimate destination for adventure seekers, offbeat lovers and basically, for anyone wanting to step out of their comfort zones by exploring a truly unique destination not many people know about.

In this EXPEDITION, we will explore beautiful remote mountains, discover Saddam Hussein’s legacy, visit endless historical, cultural and religious sites and, of course, learn about the Kurdish culture. It’s a unique, exclusive itinerary only offered by Against the Compass. We will count with professional and knowledgeable local guides and of course, I will be leading and attending the tour.

Tour dates

From March 29th to April 4th (7 days – Easter Week).

Group size

In order to guarantee the quality of the tour, we will limit it to a maximum of 8 people.

And, who can join?

Anyone, from 18 to 99+ years old, who wishes to travel with a group of open-minded travelers.

7-day Tour Itinerary

A day-by-day summary of the places we will visit in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Day 1 – Erbil, the capital of Kurdistan

Our tour guide will meet you at the arrival terminal of Erbil International Airport. For that, you should share your flight itinerary with us in advance, in order to arrange pickup accordingly.

Before starting the tour, our local guide will give us an introductory explanation about this Middle Eastern region, as well as a bunch of safety rules to follow during our trip.

Erbil is a 7,000-year-old city, one of the oldest in the world, filled with historical sites and inhabited by some of the most hospitable people in the Middle East, the Kurds.

Kurdish people in Erbil

For sightseeing, this is my favorite capital in the Middle East. In our visit, we will visit the Old Citadel, Jalil Khayat mosque, the Christian district of Ankawa (where the coolest bars are), and the bazaar.

Lunch, dinner and overnight in Erbil.

Erbil main’s square


Day 2 – Lalish, Alqosh, and Duhok

Early in the morning, we will head for Lalish, home to the Yazidis, a religious group who mainly live across the Middle East, the Caucasus, Turkey, and Russia but Iraq has the largest population.

Yazidi people

Their religion is monotheist and it is a mix of Zoroastrianism, Islam, Christianism, and Judaism and, one of their holiest places is Lalish, a tiny village with an intriguing Yazidi temple.

We will visit the temple, meet the Yazidi community and then, we will go to Alqosh, a breathtaking Christian monastery carved out from the rock. 

We will finish our day in Dohuk, one of Kurdistan’s main cities.

Dinner and overnight in Dohuk.

The main Yazidi temple


Day 3 – Sadam Hussein’s Palace, Amadiya, Shanidar and Rawandiz

In the morning, we will drive towards Amadiya, my favorite town in Iraqi Kurdistan, built on the top of a flat mountain, with incredible views of the valley.

al amadiya Iraq
Views from the Amadiya’s main gate, at sunset

It’s a 5,000-old historical village and believed to be the home of the Three Wise Man, who made a pilgrimage to Bethlehem to see Jesus Christ after his birth.

On the way, we will stop at one of the several (yet, the most impressive) abandoned palaces that Saddam Hussein had across Iraq.

Then, we will continue our way to Rawandiz, driving for 4 hours over one of the most scenic roads in the Middle East, stopping in Shanidar, an impressive cave complex.

Dinner and overnight in Rawandiz.

Amadiya from above


Day 4 – Rawandiz

Jaw-dropping canyons, fairy meadows, deep gorges and traditional Kurdish villages.

Rawandiz is a small town surrounded by the finest and most beautiful landscapes in the region and we will spend the whole day exploring its natural wonders.

Lunch, dinner and overnight in Rawandiz.

Rawandiz Canyon


Day 5 – Hamilton Road, Halabja and Tawela

We will wake up early in the morning to drive towards Halabja, a small town in which Saddam Hussein organized a massive attack with the use of chemical weapons, which killed thousands of people in a matter of seconds. We will visit a sobering memorial and museum.

Halabja memorial
Halabja memorial

The drive to Halabja is a relatively long one, but part of it goes through the Hamilton Road, an internationally famous road built by the British in the 30s.

After Halabja, we will visit Tawela, a traditonal Kurdish stepped village located right at the border with Iran.

Dinner and overnight in Sulaymaniyah.

The Hamilton Road


Day 6 – Sulaymaniyah

We will spend the entire day wandering around Sulaymaniyah, the most Westernized and modern city in all Kurdistan. 

In our visit, we will check out the most important architectural landmarks, the bazaar and one of the highlights of this trip: the Red Security Museum, aka Saddam Hussein’s House of Horrors, located in what used to be the headquarters of Saddam’s regime.

Kurdistan tourism travel guide
The old tanks from Sadam Hussein’s regime, in the Red Security Museum


Day 7 – Back home and transfer

After enjoying our last Kurdish-style breakfast altogether, we will take care of your transfer to either Erbil International Airport or Sulaymaniyah International Airport.

We can also take you to Erbil city center or, if you wish to visit other places in Kurdistan, to Sulaymaniyah bus station.

Tour cost

The total tour cost is 1495€ per person, with a minimum of 6 people.

What’s included in the price?

  • Double/twin room accommodation in 3-star hotels, with breakfast included
  • Private transportation around Kurdistan
  • Airport transfers
  • Entrance fees
  • English-speaking, knowledgeable guide
  • 24/7 in situ and remote assistance

What’s NOT included?

  • Lunch & dinner: In our experience, travelers always have different needs when it comes to eating (budget, type of food, timings, quantity, etc) so we prefer giving you the chance to order whatever you like during your free time. You will always have free time during lunch & dinner.
  • International flights
  • Drinks
  • Single supplement: You can have your own room at an additional of 20€/night. Otherwise, we offer double/twin rooms, which you will be sharing with another like-minded traveler, if coming by yourself, of course.
  • Medical Insurance: However, we can take care of it (we won’t charge any extra fees) because most regular travel insurance companies don’t cover for travel in Iraq.


Payments can be made by Standard Bank Transfer (Wire Transfer) or Credit Card or Paypal. Further details will be sent by email.

In order to secure a spot on the tour, we require a 20% deposit. The remaining 80% should be sent up to 4 weeks before the tour starting date.

Need to know about Coronavirus

As of today, passengers are advised to hold a negative Covid-19 PCR test certificate obtained within 48 hours prior to departure to the Kurdistan region in Iraq. This is very easy to obtain.

COVID-19 Cancellation policy

If the trip needs to be canceled due to COVID-19, we will refund you with 90% of the tour cost, as we need to cover basic costs related to vendor payments we already made.

COVID-19 safety measures

We guarantee:

  • Sanitization of all environments where we have full control (minivan, hotel rooms etc)
  • Safety distance in minivan
  • Free masks

Regular Cancellation policy

Our cancellation policy is as follows:

  • 60 days or more prior to departure – loss of deposit only.
  • 59-30 days before departure – 25% of tour cost.
  • 29-15 days before departure – 75% of tour cos.
  • Less than 15 days – 100% of tour cost, but you’ll get a 20% discount on the next Against the Compass Expedition!

Do you have any further questions about the tour?
Just email me at


Iraqi Kurdistan EXPEDITION